Well, it’s that time of the year again. North East Essex has pretty much the lowest UK rainfall, but in the winter months, the roads
rarely seem to fully dry out. A great feature of this part of the world is the
large network of minor roads that link farms and villages, allowing cyclists to
keep off the main roads and away from traffic. Unfortunately, because they have a
great deal of agricultural use, they are often covered in mud from tractors and
soil washing off fields when it rains. These roads aren't all that well
maintained and have a lot of potholes, cracks and fissures, which may be
covered by mud or puddles and can be difficult to spot, particularly at night. Consequently,
it’s well worth having mudguards and a set of strong wheels, and a second bike
built to accommodate them will mean that your lightweight pride and joy will
have to contend with nothing more challenging than the odd spot of ultraviolet
light.
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The Roberts Twins |
My winter (well pretty much three seasons of the year) bike
is the blue one in the photo, one of a pair of frames ordered at the same time
(c.1993) by my brother and I from
Roberts Cycles in Croydon. We both wanted
straightforward lugged road frames, made from Columbus SL tubing, an
alternative to Reynolds 531 at the time. According to Chas Roberts, we did not
really need custom frames because we have arms and legs reasonably in
proportion to our bodies and an ‘off the peg’ frame would have served perfectly
well. Custom building does have other advantages though, giving more choice
over any desirable features, in my case a bike with clearance for mudguards.
The frame was designed so that there would be sufficient
mudguard clearance using short-reach side-pull calipers at the full extent of
their reach. At the time, Shimano made a long-reach side-pull (from the 105
groupset), which would have given more clearance, especially with
larger-diameter tyres, but I was keen to use all Campagnolo kit, so short-reach it
had to be. With the benefit of hindsight, I would have gone for the 105s as
accommodating 25mm tyres and rattle-free guards has always been a problem. I'm not a big fan of cantilevers and it’s only recently that Campagnolo have made a
set with the correct leverage ratios to match Ergopower levers.
One key essential in a good winter bike is a strong pair of
wheels. I had a set built with Campagnolo Record hubs, 36 DT stainless double-butted
spokes and Mavic Open Pro rims. These wheels have inadvertently been crashed
into all the road defects mentioned above, yet remain completely true and need
relatively little maintenance, just requiring a splurge of grease through the
injection ports each autumn. The design is a big improvement over their
relatively heavy steel-axled predecessor, using strong yet light wide diameter
aluminium axles and the cup and cone setup is very easy to adjust. I think
Campagnolo have stopped producing them in polished alloy, which is a pity. Tyres are 25mm Continental GP 4000S. I’m becoming a big fan
of wide-diameter lightweight tyres as they manage to combine comfort and grip,
especially in the wet, and don’t seem to produce significantly more rolling
drag.
I’ve settled on
Salmon mudguards, because they are the only
ones I have been able to find that don’t run underneath the callipers and
consequently give more clearance. The front guard stops at the brake caliper
and the rear has a linking bridge that goes over the rear brake. It looks a bit
clunky, but it does work. The guards are narrow strips of polished alloy and
despite not wrapping round the tyre, keep water from splashing up my back and
up into my face. My feet do catch some spray from the sides, but that’s what
overshoes are for after all!
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I now avoid ice! |
The Roberts is my longest-lived bike and is still in regular
use, although because of my equipment OCD, only the steel of the frame has survived
without change. The bike is significantly heavier than my Ti Burls (22lb vs 15
lb) and isn’t as stiff, yet the weight is only apparent when you step off one
and get onto the other: once rolling for a few minutes, it is still all you
could ever really want in a road bike. The bike will take me through the winter very nicely,
although I do make a point of washing it after a ride, particularly if the
roads have been salted. I do draw the line, however at going out once the
temperature drops below zero. Two winters back, I came down on a patch of ice caused
by water running off a field and freezing. The fall was instant and
unavoidable, given the camber of the road, and resulted in a rather bruised hip
and a nasty bang on the head (saved by my helmet).
If I was starting building again from scratch, I would think
long and hard about a Ti frame (light and rust-free), hydraulic disc brakes (they’ll
work in the wet, will be maintenance-free and allow bags of mudguard clearance);
I’d be tempted by even wider tyres – 27mm
Dugasts would be nice – and the rather
lovely hammer-finished
Honjo mudguards. To top it off, belt-drive and a geared
hub (e.g. Alfine, Rohloff) would make the bike pretty much maintenance-free. Hmm,
I’ve got to say I’m really tempted!